The skincare industry often equates intensity with effectiveness. Stronger acids. Higher percentages. Faster results. But what if intelligence in skincare isn’t about pushing the skin harder, but understanding how it functions?
To explore what “intelligent skincare” really means, we spoke with Dr. Jadranka Cubrilo (Jaca), the chemist behind many advanced formulas, about longevity, inflammation, and why irritation is not a requirement for results.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY INTELLIGENT SKINCARE?
J: Intelligent skincare starts with a longevity mindset. Instead of harsh formulas and irritation, we focus on the five hallmarks of skin aging and support the skin barrier long-term.
It is about resilience, giving the skin the right signals to strengthen itself, boost collagen, and reduce inflammation.
WHEN YOU FORMULATE SKINCARE. WHAT'S THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU FOCUS ON FIRST?
J: What I value most about developing Face Formula products with Marianne is that we always begin with the same priority: function first.
Active ingredients can be incredibly effective, but only when they’re formulated and delivered in the right way. Without the right balance, delivery system, and supporting ingredients, even powerful actives can overwhelm the skin and disrupt its natural function.
That’s why every formula is designed to strengthen and support the skin from thevery beginning.
MANY BELIEVE YOU NEED IRRITATION TO GET RESULTS. IS THAT TRUE?
J: Not really. Irritation is a sign of inflammation, and inflammation shifts the skin’s energy away from what we actually want. Instead of focusing on renewal and strengthening, the skin goes into repair mode.
That’s not progress, it’s disruption. That’s why modern skincare should support the skin’s natural function, delivering active ingredients in a gentler, more controlled way.
WHAT MATTERED THE MOST WHEN FORMULATING OUR LATEST VITAMIN A FORMULAS?
J: Vitamin A is powerful, but it can also be irritating. So the goal was to create formulas suitable even for sensitive skin, targeting deeper processes in thedermis in a smoother, more controlled way, rather than an aggressive one.
